The Romans are coming!

After a disturbed night on the mooring thanks to speeding commercial traffic, a survey ship moored up alongside us and high winds (not the beans), we decided to take the morning off and visit the exceptional Roman museum at St Romaine en Gal. After all, we had free parking right outside on the banks of the Rhone!

The museum is set around the extensive ruins of a large Roman settlement and excavations have unearthed beautiful mosaics, streets, villas, baths and best of all – latrines. The Roman loos were a big hit with the boys and inspired Callum to make a working lego model replica (thankfully with model poo only).

 The replica Roman barque was filled to the brim with amphora of wine, olive oil and fish sauce. Much like our boat today– just missing the essential baked beans.

Cast off after lunch in sunshine and enjoyed a peaceful trip downriver to Chavanay.

Dan's working lego model of an aqueduct leading to happy souls in the bath.

Lobelia loves Lyon too

Set off on our boat journey through Lyon and hoped that we would not meet any large vessels as we manoeuvred around bends and under countless bridges. Our prayers were answered and the trip was peaceful. 

A rain soaked view of the Saone meeting the Rhone

Stopped off to buy fuel and break the piggy bank and then said farewell to the River Saone and bonjour to the mighty River Rhone and the much deeper much scarier locks.

The River Rhone flows from north to south and links central France to the Mediterranean. It is a river which commands respect and can turn violent rather quickly. But it is a river which promises us an adventure filled with treasures.

(For those interested in finer details of river traffic and who want to know how we are doing, check out : www.cnr.inforhone.fr and look at the navigation section and traffic at locks.)

Lazy in Lyon

Took the day off today and travelled into Lyon by train.

Lyon has a vibrant and rather beautiful city centre which is marked by the grand meeting of both the River Saone and River Rhone.

Spent the morning walking in the fabulous Tete D’Or park and visiting the zoo there. Meandered along the banks of the River Rhone and criss-crossed the city via pleasant pedestrian bridges. Sauntered through the cobbled streets and across the River Saone to the old quarter where we took the funicular railway to the top of the hill.

Over 2000 years ago the Romans built the city of Lugdunum on the slopes at the top of that hill and the remains of two enormous amphitheatres are still there and in use today. One of them was hosting a music festival and we stopped to listen to the band rehearse. However the boys were keen to stage a sword fight and so we retreated to the other amphitheatre and cheered them as they battled whilst  bemused tourists wandered through.

Passenger boats are bullies!

Notching up the kilometres as we head downstream at a steady 10km/hour, but two young boys need to rack up a similar mileage as well. Stopped for lunch at Trevoux and moored up under the footbridge and within sight of a playpark. The boys raced off to explore whilst we tidied the ropes, marvelled at the size of passing ships and made lunch.

However, our plan to stay and explore was thwarted by the arrival of a passenger boat which had priority on that mooring and we had to make a hasty departure.

As we approached the city of Lyon the frequency of potential moorings increased and we chose a splendid spot at St Germain au Mont D’Or where the boys could play happily.

Egrets?

The River Saone is wide and peaceful and surrounded by gentle green countryside which is a haven for a wealth of wildlife.  We spotted many birds of prey, heron, egrets and the unusual bright flashes of bee-eater birds.

Reached Tournus and noticed subtle differences in our surroundings : pitched roofs with flat tiles had now become gently sloping roofs with the rounded Roman tiles of the south. Motored through Macon and glimpsed the vines on the distant hills.

Boat traffic is relatively quiet but absolutely enormous : gleaming polished cruise ships 110 metres long and 11 metres wide slide past us whilst similar sized cargo vessels thunder by.

Today's the day

Today’s the day. Breakfast. Life jacket practice. Motorbike loaded. Kids onboard. Engine started and then we waved farewell to our maritime neighbours through the haze we had created and once the worst of the resulting blue fog had lifted we set off down the River Saone.

It was good to be back on the river and moving again and the smiles on our faces said it all.

Everything was going well until we were manoeuvring into the lock at Seurre and lost the use of the bow thruster thanks to a cooling problem with the generator. However, Andy kept Lobelia under control and efficiently changed the impeller as soon as we were through the lock. 

Ready Steady Cast off

School play : Dan the wolf who complained
about an unfair storyline

The last few weeks have been jammed full with barbecues, dogs who steal sausages, fireworks (both from Callum the bereft sausage owner after realising the theft had taken place and also Bastille Day in Auxonne), school plays, sports days, driving, catching up with friends and family in the UK, shopping (baked beans), and endless more driving.
But we now have Andy back with us (tempted by the baked beans perhaps) and the barge is ready to head south tomorrow...

Dan the boule champion of the Old Lock

Farewell gentle frogs of the Old Lock