Home Again

Finally we are home again - all of us. Here to celebrate the New Year and to recharge our batteries after a hectic couple of months in the UK.

It is good to be back and to relax in a relatively traffic-free, wine-fuelled nation. Life is simple once more and, instead of the motorway hum, our alarm call is the dawn chorus of hungry geese.

The boys are free range again and the goodwill of multi-national neighbours is abundant.

It feels good.

Lobelia goes to the party

H20 is celebrating its 25th anniversary this year and we were delighted to be invited to the party weekend in September.
The occasion was marked with a parade of boats followed by a fabulous party in the Gare d'Eau.
Lobelia was bedecked with flags and bunting and looked splendid from the waterline up. (Her bottom needs cosmetic work - something I fully understand).
She joined the flotilla for a sail-past. Dan and Callum and their friend Clare dressed up as wolves and pirates and howled like dogs and staged mock battles on the deck. Other boaters returned the calls and the cacophony of boat horns, ship's bells and howling was unusual and rather unsettling for stowaway stray cat Tigra who paced frantically through our galley.

View from Lobelia's back cabin roof

Some of our neighbours' barges

Wolf Dan in full howl

Somebody is following us...

We returned Lobelia to her mooring and Tigra beat a hasty retreat to dry land.

Cycled back into town to the party at the Gare d'Eau which was excellent and filled with laughter, good wine and some hilarious performances from an alternative band.

The clarinet player in the tree receives a helping hand.

On the road

This summer the boys declared that they wanted to have a holiday away from the boat. And they wanted to go back to the South of France to play on the beaches and swim in the sea - just like they had done last year.
However, last year we went with the boat and travelled south down the River Saone and the mighty Rhone. We had moored for free in the South of France on the canal running parallel with the coast and had enjoyed the fun of the beach and the luxury of home comforts close by.
This year, rather reluctantly, we left Lobelia tied up and jumped in the car to motor south.
The Autoroute plays a coquettish game of hide and seek with the river and offers tantalising glimpses which made us crane our necks and hanker for our life afloat. But instead of relaxed and uncongested wide waterways we had to make do with fast-paced hell on the motorway.
We spent two weeks on a camp site and away from creature comforts like beds...
But our senses filled with the sights and sounds and flavours of the South of France. Ah, chilled honeyed Muscat - an excellent remedy for camping bad back (if taken in sensibly large quantities).

The best ever Pharmacy : Cave de Balta, Frontignan
Try their fabulous "Chant de Cigales"

And then we packed away our camp, threw it in the back of the car and motored seven hours back up the motorway with the windows closed and the air con on. It wasn't until we were off the motorway and twenty minutes away from the barge in Burgundy that we put a window down. The scent of fertile countryside and lush foliage was over-powering and made me gasp. The car had been a barrier to our sense of travel. It made us all realise the benefit of travelling at a snail's pace on the barge where we can appreciate the subtle differences in climate and aroma.

Lobelia and resident stray cat were waiting for us and both gave us a welcome home.

Island in the Saone

We had thoroughly enjoyed the privacy and tranquility of anchoring on the Saone and decided that we would do more of the same en route back to our permanent mooring at Saint Jean de Losne.
Set off from Chalons on yet another perfect sun filled day and motored off into an infinite avenue of green and blue.
Passing through Gergy we searched the riverbanks and skies for the resident colony of bee eater birds and got cameras at the ready...

and were lucky to capture this beauty.

Then motored on and found a secluded bay where we dropped anchor once again. The engine was barely stopped before the boys had jumped off the deck and into the water.

Olympic divers at the ready

The afternoon was so perfect for all of us that we decided to stay put for the night. Set up camp on deck and slept under the stars and woke up early in a magical misty world through which the commercial barges creep.

It was so good that we decided to stay another day, another night and finally tore ourselves away at midday on the third day.

Sunset Saone

Back out on the river at Chalons sur Saone and both Lobelia and her crew are happy once more. Walked into town to visit the Sunday fruit and veg market which was bustling and vibrant. Purchased a tasty selection of cheese, mushrooms, fruit and a rather stylish hat (for Dan).

Got back to the boat, created a delicious lunch with all but the hat, and then decided that we needed a swim in the river, so we cast off and motored a few km north of Chalons and found a peaceful spot in which to drop anchor. Spent a splendid afternoon playing in the cool waters of the River Saone.

Motored back to our derelict mooring which is strewn with the most beautiful selection of wild flowers.

The Guillotine

Callum and Shiv at the sharp end of the lock with a view of the Saone

A working holiday

The Canal du Centre's tight bends and awkward locks had taken their toll on our poor girl Lobelia. So when we reached the last lock prior to our return onto the River Saone we decided to spend a couple of days painting.
We have a continuous painting task and there is always a project on the go. However, in the space of a couple of days we managed to prep and paint her side decks and her pretty blue go faster stripe!

View down from Canal du Centre through lock to the Saone

Shiny decks!

Lobelia's elves like to dive bomb the canal

Lobelia's little elves have discovered a new pastime -

The Canal du Centre

We had decided to retrace our steps northwards to Chalons sur Saone and today embarked on a new waterway – the Canal du Centre.

Once upon a time the French wanted to build a canal which linked the Atlantic to the River Saone which would then naturally provide an onward link to the Mediterranean. They started building their canal in Chalons sur Saone and slowly worked their way towards the Atlantic.

However, hillsides, money issues, committees and wars all got in the way and the canal suffered. In fact the designer was so frustrated that, after a particularly long night at the drawing board, he went to bed in despair. Unfortunately it was then that the shoemaking elves who lived in the designer’s house decided to get involved. They were pretty good at shoes but absolutely rubbish at canal design. And they had a bit too much Burgundy wine to drink. They drew lots of squiggles. The next morning the designer was thrilled to see the finished plans and submitted them immediately. And they were accepted!

And so poor Lobelia with poor Andy at the helm finds herself on the bendiest, wiggliest, narrowest canal ever. There are lots of low bridges and locks and they are all built on tight bends.

But it is beautiful, so top marks to the elves for finding a pretty route which does take in a decent number of vineyards.

And by the way – the canal never made it to the Atlantic.

Lobelia likes to limbo

Beautiful views across the vineyards at Santenay

A pretty stop in Fragnes

A quiet Bastille Day

Bastille Day today and time for France to light up its skies with a cocktail of colour and sound and for the French to make merry all day.  And on that basis we decided to keep Lobelia on our quiet, out-of-the-way mooring near Pont de Vaux and cycle towards the mayhem.

But Pont de Vaux was fairly restrained. The firework display had happened in the rain the night before. The parades were short and sweet. And only the fishermen were in evidence.

We enjoyed our cycle ride and found a pleasant restaurant with a sunny terrace for a convivial lunch. And then we visited the permanent exhibition linked to the Tourist Information Centre which was an all singing- all dancing interactive showcase about the River Saone as it flows through this area. Well worth a visit.

On the Saone again

Took the boys for a swim at the pool in Chalons sur Saone and then set off south down the River Saone. Lobelia is in her element on the river. She sounds happy and her crew are happy too, lapping up the kilometres of green blue ribbon weaving through the verdant Burgundy countryside.

Moored for the night at Ormes lock in peaceful surroundings. But then midnight struck and a giant grain coaster called Artemis drew alongside us and her Russian crew clambered across our decks in search of a shoreside tap so that they could replenish their water tanks. 

Artemis’ engines fired up just before 6am and woke us and then she was gone.

We stayed put and followed her south at a much more respectable hour of the morning.

Motored south through Tournus to a mooring near Pont du Vaux where we had stopped last year. The sun was shining and we broke out the paint brushes and set to work on Lobelia’s decks – just in time for the arrival of another 39 metre barge searching for a mooring. “Majo” moored alongside us for the night. Lobelia had found herself another friend.

On the move again

Summer is here and we are on the move again. Slipped our mooring in the Old Lock and realised that the Old Lock cat was still aboard! A nifty move to the side and she was returned safely to familiar mousing territory and we motored away down the River Saone.
Enjoyed a trip down to Chalons sur Saone where we moored up on the old quay beneath the rusting cranes.
Spent an enjoyable evening on the riverside where there was an open air concert.

Katrina comes to visit

Katrina has been brave enough to come back for a second helping of Lobelia life in France. This time the boat stayed on its mooring in Saint Jean de Losne and we went off in the car on excursions to Besancon and Beaune.

Hellishly heavy hail

Some of the hail that hit us. 

On the 30th of June we spent the afternoon at Genlis Rugby Club in gorgeous sunshine and after saying our farewells we returned to the boat. Within an hour the weather had changed. I was stood next to Andy out on deck and I turned to him and said, "It feels as though the end of the world is coming." Andy laughed. But within minutes that laughter subsided as we ran for cover and battened down the hatches and hid inside the boat as a bombardment of hefty golfball-sized hailstones hit Lobelia and all around. 

The hail pelted us for more than five minutes and sounded horrendous. It was as dark as night. And then suddenly the sky erupted in flashes of brilliant light and the soundtrack changed into a terrifying peal of thunder. Something very close to us took a direct hit and all the electricity tripped out. I have never heard a noise like it. It was terrifying and yet fascinating at the same time.

Lobelia seemed to survive unscathed. However lots of cars and boats were severely damaged. And, one week on, we are still waiting for our internet and telephone connections to come back online.

Au Revoir

We have reached the end of term for school, judo club and rugby too. And sadly we have decided it is time to move on from Saint Jean de Losne. We have been very happy here and made to feel very welcome. We have become part of the community. The boys have made great friends too. So, the end of term has been a emotional time - for all of us.

The school show with Callum the M.C.

Dan and his classmates at a farewell picnic

Callum awarded yellow belt in judo

Dan awarded yellow-orange

The u9 Genlis rugby team after an end of season night out with their coaches.

And on the 30th of June we went to the end of season party at Genlis rugby club. It was a very sociable affair and Ricard were being very generous with their wares and topping up glasses in the sunshine. Each team and their coaches received applause for their achievements throughout the season. However, the u9s appraisal was kept until the very end. They had had a very good year and won two major tournaments. But the Club went that bit further and after a very complimentary speech and a guard of honour they presented Callum with a plaque and a set of monogrammed kit. Shiv was reduced to a puddle of tears and Callum was rendered speechless. 

Genlis Rugby Club is a fabulous club filled with warm, generous people who have made us feel very welcome indeed, despite the language barrier. We will miss them greatly.

It's a man's world

This petrol station is on our route to the Jura and is a car wash and outdoor launderette too (look at the building on the left) and we love the fact that it is always busy. The perfect place for bachelors to spend their Saturday mornings!

Pardon!

Saint Jean de Losne hosts a boat blessing ceremony every June which is called the Pardon (as in forgiveness and not in hard of hearing). 

The town springs to life with a fairground, a market, fireworks and a gathering of boats bedecked with flags.

This year Lobelia went to the party(alas minus Shiv who had gone to Devon to see her parents) and was the belle of the ball. 

She was duly blessed by the local priest. Flowers were thrown and wine awarded.

The Genlis under 9s do the Haka

Callum was asked to play with the Genlis U9s in Chambery this weekend. It meant an early start - we left home at 5am to drive 160 miles for this big tournament. Once again there were over 140 teams attending, spread across the different age groups. And this time it was an international event, attracting teams from Italy and France.

The drive there was long but breathtakingly beautiful :

The rugby ground in Chambery was equally picturesque. Set in a bowl surrounded by cliffs and snow-capped mountains. 

It was a jolly atmosphere with lots of teams in bright kit, gazebos galore and countless  bar-b-qs. I was a little surprised as I walked past an Italian group and heard an English voice shout across to me. Simon of Verona. He was merrily cooking lunch for his Italian team, wine bottle in hand. I complimented the food and he confided that the only way the Italians would come to a French tournament was if they did not have to eat the French food! And yet the French make mockery of the British cuisine and here was an Englishman cooking for the Italians in France. I'm looking forward to dining out on that story the next time my French pals are rude about English food.

The tournament went well, despite the afternoon rain. Genlis made it to the final which was a rain dousing 1-1 against Beaune.  Beaune somehow were declared the winners and this reduced our little team to tears of incredulity. However, after five minutes of confusion, Genlis were declared winners on points. Tears of joy ensued. Followed by the presentation of a cup and a superb French version of the Haka, led by a charismatic lad in the team (as in the video below).

Finally left the rugby ground at 6.30pm and got home, exhausted, before 10pm. 

Diamond Jubilee Celebrations

I have vivid memories of the Silver Jubilee Celebrations and can still picture the sea of red, white and blue cakes which weighed down the trestle tables outside my school. And I remember my brother Seamus at the end of the tea party. He was all alone and ploughing through Mrs Bryant's particularly heavy sponge with inch thick Union Jack icing. Tables were packed away around him as he valiantly ploughed on.
But above all it remains a happy childhood memory with a date which is easy to pinpoint.

Here in France we have escaped all the Diamond Jubilee preparations, but were well aware of street parties and barge pageants. Indeed we had missed the Royal Wedding and would be missing the Olympics as well.
I had nothing planned.  But my strong childhood memories nagged away at me and at 7am this morning I had pangs of parental guilt, knowing that I was with-holding an opportunity for the boys to have a cherished Jubilee memory.

So we set to work, sadly without Andy. Bunting was draped. Deck chairs and tables laid out. We made jelly, cakes, sandwiches and devised games. We nipped around to various friends on boats and invited them to join us for high tea on Lobelia.

Our friends arrived and we ditched the idea of drinking tea in favour of toasting H.M. with bubbles. Several bottles!

Many thanks to John and Sandy, Liz and Alan, Alex, Tim and Tex who came and gamely joined in with the games. It was a baking hot day and the impromptu water pistol fight was very refreshing.
I put the boys to bed knowing that they now had taken part in a proper Jubilee party experience.
Guess it is the Olympics next! Neighbours beware!!!!

Liz attempts Dan's game "Pin the crown on the Queen"

60 second drawing challenge

Strawberry and spoon obstacle race

Who let Callum loose with the squirty cream!

Rule Britannia in France

Jumping back in time

We have a mountain of video clips and I have been technophobic about doing anything with them. However, courtesy of Callum's rugby victory, I had to learn how to handle these film clips and do something with them. In the last few days I have cut together a rugby final DVD and now I am trawling back through the last two years' worth of memories.
Anyway, I thought this little clip was worthy of the blog just as it is - in its pure state.
It is a clip of our bedroom porthole being washed by the English Channel /La Manche as we crossed from the UK to France in June 2010.

Victorious

The French junior rugby season is still going. And there are still more tournaments ahead. But last Sunday we drove to Lons le Saunier for one of the biggest junior tournaments. Callum plays for Genlis under 9s.

It was a superb day and after several resounding wins they made it to the final against the host team. It was a tense match and the stands were full of home supporters who cheered and booed the teams accordingly. A noisy affair but the Genlis team kept their cool and, despite two sendings-off for high tackles, they were victorious.

...though the trophy was a bit odd.

(A clip of Callum scoring a try in one of the group matches earlier in the day)

Printing Museum at Louhans

Another day, another school trip. This time I went with Callum's class to Louhans (in Bresse) to visit the Printing Museum. The tiny street entrance did not look promising, but inside this Aladdin's Cave we discovered the beating heart of the former local daily newspaper and we were rewarded with a busy day spent in the print workshop.
The workshop had it all : linotype machines, rotary presses, typewriters, sounds, looks and smells. Better still, the children were able to take part in the entire process of print. They had written a poem which they composited fastidiously by placing each individual letter in a frame. They watched as the machines' rollers were inked and then took turns to press, stamp and powder their results.
It was an excellent day out. And as far as I know, we even came back with the correct number of little fingers.

(For lovers of machinery and percussion everywhere)

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Birthday and a BBQ

This year, as luck should have it, my birthday coincided with a BBQ get-together for the residents at the Old Lock. Super Dan worked very hard at making it an extra special evening by enlisting the help of our good neighbours John and Sandy. Sandy made a delicious cake which thankfully lacked the full complement of candles. And John duetted with Dan in an accordion/guitar rendition of Happy Birthday. And John, (after a tiny bit of persuasion), graced us with the first ever Old Lock accordion stripp-o-gram. Brave, considering the free range geese meandering about...

Hot dog anyone?