Douai to Arleux

We left Douai, which had a beautiful bell tower, quaint and quiet 14^th century cobbled streets and clear blue skies – but also an element of social unrest which made us quite glad to leave.

We headed for Arleux at the junction of the Canal du Nord and the Canal de la Sensee and hoped to find a chandlery or boat yard there and our spirits were lifted when we arrived and saw a large number of commercial barges. 

Moored up among these workhorses Lobelia, with her flourishing garden and hot tub, resembled a supergroup tour bus parked in a coach park off the M4. Cars, cyclists and boats all slowed down to take a good look and were usually rewarded with a blast of a water pistol from a small bass player in the hot tub.

On our first day we had a visitor. He was the cousin of Lobelia’s previous owners and had known the barge when it was working. He was amazed at its metamorphosis and took lots of photos. He also showed us some photos of the previous owners on their wedding day stood on the bow of the boat which was bedecked with flags and flowers.

Later that day, which had been unbelievably hot, a working barge motored into view. Lobelia is 39m and there are plenty of barges around which are exactly the same size. However they are not commercially viable, so the trend now is to tie another 39m barge infront and push it along, controlling its systems via a long umbilical. Anyway, this double 39m came by at speed and moored up in a tight spot infront of us as if it was simply pulling into a space at Sainsburys. We looked on in awe. The skipper appeared. She was built like a Russian shotputter and scowled at us. Her mooring tasks were done within 5 minutes (a job that still takes us about 20) and then she dived into the canal with her dog and splashed around to cool off (and probably do some underwater welding at the same time). We ran and hid.

The next day we decided to have a day off (for fear of meeting the shotputter in a lock). Cycled a few km along the towpath to a water park and lounged around in the sun all day as the boys played mini-golf, somersaulted on bouncy castles and caused chaos in the water fountains.

A quick update

This blog entry could prove interesting: We have not had wi-fi for over a week. We are now in Douai and I am using a non-QWERTY keyboard which is playing havoc with my typing.
Anyway : the quick update.
Fuelled up on 22/6 and travelled towards Comines lock. Said our farewell to Belgium the following day and changed the courtesy flag to the French tricolor.
Our first few experiences of barging en France were not great and we really struggled to find a mooring space. Continued down the canal de Deule and ended up on a fly infested mooring opposite a metal recycling quay. Not quite how we imagined the dream!
The following day (24/6) we found an idyllic, yet expensive mooring, in the pretty town of Wambrechies. Fabulous towpath cycling, hot sunny days, evenings spent listening to the African music festival and playing boule. Stayed for three nights and took the bus to Lille. Visited the free zoo in the Citadel and wandered into the city where we found ourselves caught up in a massive protest march.
On Sunday (27/6) we moved to a quiet mooring at Wavrin and tuned the sattelite dish into the football, which was probably a mistake given the result. We also ended up rescuing a racing pigeon from the canal and it stayed the night. This prompted me to learn lots of unfamiliar French vocab as I anticipated having to phone the owner. Luckily, for both me and the owner, the pigeon flew off the next morning.
On Monday (28/6) we moored on a quiet quay at Le Bac and drew quite a crowd from the locals. The flourishing vegetable garden on deck received lots of comments and we befriended a local man named Christian. He would pop down to visit us regularly and chat away to us in French punctuated with unbelievably good sound effects. He gave us a mountain of lettuce and, in return, we gave him an England flag. He, and his elderly mother, waved us off this morning - flag flying high.
Now in Douai in an Arabic internet cafe......
All going well on Lobelia. Heading for Cambrai next where the boys think they can join the Tour de France!

What's in a name?

It’s a bit odd, but every time that Lobelia finds herself in a tricky situation it is always in the presence of a barge with an ominous name. So far this has been true with :

Tsunami; Apolcalypse; Avalanche; Hades & Hurricane.

Heaven help us when we meet : Typhoon, Plague, Famine & Desolation!

Some photos to accompany our hurried blog entry of Douai

Some useful river signs...

England forever and Christian the lettuce giver!

Tranquility....

Seen some strange barges

A bit about Belgium

Belgium seems to have got rid of shopkeepers. The corner shop is now just a giant vending machine with lettuce, bread, beer and wine all just a button push and credit card away. Not sure if the eggs ever make it through the system in one piece?

The Longest Day

At 3am our peaceful weekend was shattered by the ominous noise of boat engines and ropes creaking. Commercial traffic was on the move already. Massive ghostly shapes thundered past us in the dark at regular intervals. You soon got to know when they were coming. Everything is still and quiet and suddenly Lobelia fidgets on her ropes like a bored puppy on a lead. Then you hear the noise of an engine and as the noise approaches Lobelia pulls at her ropes in an effort to escape the danger.
At 6am we got up and watched in amazement as these leviathans motored past our "tiny" boat. In the photo above you can see Lobelia huddled next to the quay.
At 0730 a man appeared on the quay and politely asked us if we were staying very long as a barge delivery was due. No sooner than he had said it, the "delivery" came into view. We made a rapid departure and at 0745 we were out on the river in the thick of commercial traffic which came in all shapes, sizes and speeds.
Being overtaken by a larger vessel is no fun. Your boat gets sucked in towards the overtaking vessel. Their prop steals the water from beneath you and renders your prop and rudders useless. An 80m laden barge called Merengue overtook us and Lobelia went from 8 knots to 3 knots and then got dragged along by Merengue at 9.3 knots in a matter of moments. Andy had only just got Lobelia back under control when another unladen barge, scarily named Tsunami, overtook both us and Merengue. It was some ride!
By 9am we reached our first lock - Sluis St Baafsvijve (136m x 16m), which isn't easy to say on the VHF when you want to ask if you can come through. Masses of boats jostled for a spot in the lock queue. We watched in horror as we realised that one ship had reversed into the lock from the other side and completely filled it. Both Andy and I felt apprehensive. The boys were oblivious and enjoyed watching everything.


We entered the lock and shared it with Merengue and another laden barge. Thankfully we did not disgrace ourselves or our Red Ensign. Twenty minutes later and the guillotine style lock gates raised, Lobelia was spared and we departed the lock, feeling a little more confident in our abilities.

We continued on our way, with a 4 hour stop in Harelbeke before the lock.
Continued along the River Leie and hoped to stop at Kortrijk / Courtrai but, due to extensive river works we could not find a suitable mooring.
Finally moored up at 1900 by the bridge in Menen /Menin which is an ancient citadel town on the border with France.
We took a stroll after tea and crossed the footbridge leading to the Capitainerie and France. But, France was closed - "it is a private party" - so we walked back to Belgium and drank beer at the swimming pool.
Today had lived up to its title as the longest day.

Father's Day

No travel today. A day of rest and some much needed pampering for Dad? Not quite. We treated Andy to a cycling trip to the Brielmeersen country park which was handily disguised as a play park. Great fun for all. Fabulous water play area dotted with channels, lock gates, fountains and an Archimedes screw.

The shape of things to come - "Suspicious minds"

Our rural idyll was disturbed by this monster ship passing us by at Beernem. But it was the only one so we tried to forget about it and, after a morning cycling excursion, we left our mooring at 1215.











At 1445 we turned off the canal onto the River Lys. Everyone took their turn at the wheel. Some held a straighter course than others.

At 1700 we decided to moor up at a deserted commercial wharf near Deinze.
We had travelled nearly 36km and not really seen any traffic on the waterways. Everything seemed very peaceful.
The boys decided to decorate the quay walls with chalk and then jumped into the hot tub for a water pistol fight.

P.S.  Elvis is alive and well in Belgium.

Leaving Bruges

We cast off at 1115 and headed off on the Bruges canal ring which is a very picturesque boating agility course of swing bridges and bends and narrow turns and an unusual circular lock. We reached the entrance to the circular lock at 1135 and were curtly told that it was now shut until 1230. Dutifully waited and made lunch. Traffic on the adjacent road sped by. However, at 1230 we set off again and gleefully brought the traffic to a standstill as swing bridge after swing bridge lifted to let us pass through at our sedate pace. Fantastic views of Bruges from the canal.

Not much boat traffic on route - though we did meet a fuel barge on a bend, which tested our nerve a little!

We continued out of Bruges on the Oostende-Ghent canal. City melted away and we cruised along peaceful green waterways.
At 1430 we arrived at Beernum lock where we decided to moor up. Craned the motorbike off the barge so that Andy could nip back to Nieuwpoort and retrieve something from the car.
Andy returned in time for tea and as we were without wi-fi or tv reception (which meant the boys missed the England football game) we settled down to a family game of scrabble.

Chocolate Heaven

Day 3 of Floating School and after an early morning Literacy lesson we announced a school trip into Bruges. The boys were thrilled. We walked along the canal past an unusual circular lock and massive barges which made Lobelia look like a toy.
Along the canal were several windmills, one of which was open to the public. Steep stairs led to a timber loft perched on stilts. The sails were turning and the whole thing creaked like an elderly windworn sailing yacht. The views over the city were beautiful. It was as if time had stood still and we were part of the old city.

Chocolate called from afar and we found ourselves in one of the many temples dedicated to its worship. Purchases were made, chocolate tasted and then we hit the tourist trail and took a trip on the canal, weaving our way through the medieval buildings and their distinctive step-gable roofs.
Followed this with a speedy charge up the 366 stairs of the Belfry. Callum led - so we had to keep up with him for fear of what he might do at the top. He set a heady pace which others, who followed us, seemed duty bound to copy. The boys bounded around at the top whilst all adults rested and regained healthy breathing patterns.
Bruges is bestowed with a wealth of culture and incredible museums and churches. Callum voted to visit the Frites (yes-chips)Museum. We vetoed him. After a fair family debate we settled on the Chocolate Museum. It was a good choice with plenty to interest all of us and a praline making demonstration which ended in a delicious tasting. Andy and I were pleased to find out that dark chocolate, like red wine, is capable of reducing cholesterol and thrilled to discover that the museum shop sells cocoa laced red wine.
FACT : don't come between a woman and her chocolate. In the 1500s Spanish women who had settled in Mexico loved chocolate so much that they could not stop drinking it. Their servants would even pour it for them during religious ceremonies. The constant coming and going of the servants annoyed the Bishop, so he decided to ban it from Mass. As a result people stayed away from church and finally the Bishop was murdered. Poison had been added to his cup of cocoa!
Our visit to the Museum did nothing to satisfy the boys' chocolate cravings so we visited a cafe on the main square and treated them to chocolate pancakes and us to Belgian beer.

Returned to Lobelia in the evening. Shattered but very happy.

Arrival in Bruges

Started the day with a numeracy lesson and at 1045 the boys were given a break as we cast off from Plassendalesluis and took a tight turn onto the Gent-Oostende canal. This canal was much wider though this also meant that the barges were bigger too.
Some fabulous swing bridges with amazing engineering and near-balletic movement. Someone somewhere will really enjoy our video compilation of swing bridges in action. Pray it isn't you!
1310 Moored up alongside another 39m barge on the nautical version of the North Circular around Bruges.  Just a 1km gentle stroll into the market square.
Massive laden barges about 80m long pass us on this mooring and Lobelia pulls at her ropes. Alarming at first but we are getting used to it.
Enjoyed a few hours meandering through the cobbled streets and finally gave in to the boys' demands for chocolate waffles.
Andy and I have re-watched the quirky film "In Bruges" and are being location spotter bores.

Double Dutch on day 1 through Belgium & Floating School starts

Spent an enjoyable weekend cycling around the Nieuwpoort area and then, on Monday morning, we cast off from our mooring in Nieuwpoort and headed off along the Plassendale-Nieuwpoort canal. Lobelia is now sporting a red and white navigation flag on the bow, a Belgian courtesy flag on the mast and the Red Ensign on her stern.
Made a brief stop to crane on the motorbike and take on fresh water. Half an hour later we arrived at the first swing bridge and Andy called on the VHF to request that it be opened for us.
Now, Belgium is a great place but the language is confusing. Belgium is a divided country : Flanders and Wallonia. They speak Flemish and Dutch in Flanders; French and something else in Wallonia. Both dislike each other and the French.
So, back to the swing bridge and the VHF. Silence. Then a torrent of....double dutch? Half an hour passed and the bridge was still closed. After several attempts we successfully made contact with the lock keeper on the telephone. The language barrier remained but we hoped that our pronunciation of Rattevallebrug sufficed. Nothing happened. Then, three small boats joined us and they waited too.
Finally, after two hours, a little yellow van appeared and the bridge was opened by a moustachioed lock keeper who then beckoned us through and proceeded to follow us along the canal to the subsequent 5 swing bridges. Each bridge proved tighter and more awkward to get through than the last one.
Eventually we arrived at Plassendalesluis and asked if we could moor up for the night in the vast lock and take on more fresh water (mainly for the hot tub). The lock keepers came out in force and, to our surprise, they announced that Lobelia was the biggest barge that they had ever seen come along that canal!

BIG NEWS : Floating School started today. The boys are very excited about their new reading club and the associated point incentives; mildly interested in their spellings list; unusually hooked on fractions; and keen to write their journals.

Friday fun

"Does it rain all the time in Belgium?" enquired Callum.
So far the boys have only seen it in the rain and today is no exception. We swapped the rain for a local waterpark and spent two hours swimming and sliding and sinking. The rain departed and in the afternoon we took the boys on a cycle ride up to the coast. Big thanks to Kieran for handing on his bike - Callum did very well on it.
Cycling is the norm here and the bike paths are amazing. Absolutely everyone cycles - all ages. And neon pink and yellow lycra spans many generations!
"I like it in Belgium" announced Callum as he wearily climbed into bed.

The boys are back

What a week! On Monday Andy and I left the barge and returned to pick up the boys in Devon. Motorbike/ferry/motorbike/car (and the opportunity to meet some very gentlemanly bikers on the ferry) - 11 hours and 326 miles later we were reunited with two very excitable young boys and a relieved pair of Grandparents.
Spent Tuesday in Devon recovering and catching up with family. A big thank you to all the Tuckers for looking after us so splendidly.
On Wednesday we set off on the return journey to Belgium. The boys were brilliant passengers and thrilled to be back onboard Lobelia.
Today we have spent the day recovering again! Took the boys for a walk along the harbour and they delighted in frolicking through the fountains - fully clothed.

Recovery in Nieuwpoort

After copious amounts of celebratory red wine and lots of sleep the support crew were ferried back to Calais on Andy's taxi bike. The afternoon was spent washing down the whole boat and trying to return the interior to normal. The fish are much happier! Licence purchased for Belgian waterways at fab price of 25 euros for 6 months. Compare that to £66/day Environment Agency licence for the Thames!
Lobelia seems happy to be back at home in her native Belgium.

Be brave!

0615 Pete phoned to say he was coming back to Lobelia and that we should get ready to go. Andy prepped the engine, John danced for joy and Shiv made bacon rolls.
0700 depart Teddington lock. Blue sky and sunshine.
0900 Hammersmith Bridge
1000 Tower Bridge

1105 Thames Barrier and then time kept ticking by and the sights did not change very much until night time! Though we were privileged to see two porpoises on our portside and saluted the flotilla of returning Dunkirk little ships after their 70th anniversary celebration in France.

We received lots of concerned texts about our position, but many people don't realise quite how long the Thames really is. Teddington to the mouth of the estuary at North Foreland is nearly 100 miles and at Lobelia's stately 6mph and the effects of tide changes, it takes a rather long time!

2200 We started shifts at the wheel. John and Pete went to sleep for 2 hours and left Andy and I at the helm as we headed out into the channel.

A long night lay ahead and we constantly scanned the horizon for marker buoy lights and other shipping. Dover coastguard kept us company on the VHF and are the politest people on earth and sea. We found a massive wind farm under construction and not yet on the chart despite the vast area it now covers.
We headed towards the separation zone which to landlubbers is a bit like the M1. Busy!

Shifts at the helm changed and so did the wind. The sea became lumpier and lumpier and waves broke over Lobelia's bow and submerged the portholes as she bounced up and down on the swell. Amazingly nothing broke though the fish looked remarkably seasick in their tank and the chests of drawers in the bow bedroom exploded after one particularly violent wave.

Then, finally, after 175 miles from Sunbury lock we arrived in Nieuwpoort, Belgium. Met with amazed stares from passersby and coastguard official alike, Lobelia had averaged a speed of 6.3mph and guzzled 550 litres of fuel. The crew consumed similar quantities of tea and coffee.

1045 on 3rd June we moored up at Nieuwpoort fish quay and rested the engine.






A trio of jolly customs officials boarded us soon after our arrival for an inspection but were more interested in the hot tub than anything else and promised to return to use it.

Andy craned the motorbike off the deck and onto the dock.

1500 We moved from the fish quay through the first lock and into the Belgian canal system. Moored up on the other side and slept.

Bell Weir to Teddington Lock

After a prolonged wait for the fuel tanker delivery we slipped the mooring at Bell Weir at 1430. Skipper Andy, galley slave Shiv and cabin boy John R Wright. The grey skies and light drizzle were ignored thanks to the fantastic farewells we had from friends as we headed downstream. Thanks go to the Ledgers at Bell Weir; George, Abbie, Tom and Ollie at Staines bridge; the Franklins, Jude and Toby Ford at Chertsey lock; the Tollers and Mel's mum at Shepperton lock.
Arrived at Teddington lock at 2030 and met up with our cross channel skipper - Pete. Sadly the shipping forecast was as grey as the sky. North-east winds and Force 5 predicted. Unfortunately Force 4 is Lobelia's max. So Pete went home; we paid £9 for the mooring; and we went to the pub.